Alternative Tour to the Palestinian Territories

6th - 13th February 2017

This tour was led by Revd Daniel Burton and organised through Special Pilgrimages.
We also came to meet up with our friend John Hobson in his last week working in Palestine - the tour was timed to take place at the end of his three month placement with EAPPI working as an Ecumenical Accompanier in Palestine.

Arrival

Monday 6th February

So, we travelled from Manchester Airport on Monday 6th February, flying the 5 hours to Ben Gurion Airport. All went well and we arrived safely, got through passport control okay and were met by our guide, Tanos. We then climbed on the bus for the journey of an hour or so to Bethlehem. Already on the journey to the hotel we were aware of the strange situation we were in, as we drove down a well maintained highway through the heart of occupied Palestinian territory that Palestinian cars are not allowed to drive on.

By the time we got to the very fine Bethlehem Hotel we were a little tired and hungry and very thirsty.

 The locally produced beer was quite a hit!

Jerusalem

Tuesday 7th February

Today we visited Jerusalem. We went to Sabeel, which is an ecumenical liberation theology organisation and Omar led us on a journey around the city doing an alternative "Way of the Cross". It was informative and powerful.





Omar took us to the ruined, abandoned village of Lifta. He told us the story of how whole villages were visited in 1948 by Israeli militia and people were forced to leave. More than 400 Palestinian villages were emptied and most were destroyed, this one for the moment still remains. The inhabitants became refugees.

Today the ruined houses are largely used by drug addicts.

As we stood on the hill trying to absorb the horror of what had happened we noticed some beautiful birds flying from bush to bush.
We went on to the the Ministry of the Interior and heard about some of the bureaucratic problems that Palestinians encounter and the everyday humiliations and obstacles in life, for example when a Palestinian woman from East Jerusalem married someone from the Palestinian territory, the marriage wasn't recognised and the children have not been able to have birth certificates.


We went to have a look at the separation wall up close. It is big and grim. It cuts communities in two. It is in the wrong places. It is apparently not very effective and does not seem to have any purpose but to disrupt lives.




We went to the Hebrew University and looked out over Jerusalem.  


We returned to Sabeel for a very nice lunch and then went for a short walk to a place of house demolition.


Apparently most Palestinian houses in East Jerusalem are built without permission because the Israeli authorities won't give permission for many houses to be built. They then force people to demolish their homes or do it for them and charge them.





The financial cost for the family is so high that those who have their homes demolished often have to flee the country. The family that lived here are now in Jordan.




Bethlehem at night

Tuesday 7th February

We went for a walk into Bethlehem, down to Manger Square for a drink and I took a few night photos.

The main door of the Church of the Nativity - it is very small so you have to stoop to enter.
It is called the Door of Humility and is a small rectangular entrance to the church created in Ottoman times to prevent carts being driven in by looters, and to force even the most important visitor to dismount from his horse as he entered the holy place. The doorway was reduced from an earlier Crusader doorway, the pointed arch of which can still be seen above the current door.


Star Street

Post cat fight




Hebron

Wednesday 8th February

We visited Hebron today which was pretty overwhelming really. It is a mad, mad place. It is the site of the burial of Sarah and Abraham and other Patriarchs and Matriarchs, a significant place to at least 3 religions. In 1968 just after the Israeli seizure of the West Bank, some Israeli settlers arrived to try to establish a Jewish presence, possibly in an attempt to ethnically cleanse Hebron of the established Palestinian community. Meanwhile life goes on under the watchful eye of the Israeli Defence Force.

  
Palestinian Children on their way to school, having passed through an Israeli checkpoint



 In the centre shops have had to be abandoned as the IDF have forced people out.


IDF checkpoint


Black arrow on a door means that it must be left open at all times or the IDF will force it open.





Checkpoint encounter

Ibrahimi Mosque in Hebron

Wednesday 8th February
We visited Ibrahimi Mosque, which is situated above the burial cave of the Patriarchs and Matriarchs, Sarah, Abraham, Isaac and Rebecca.

The women had to cover their heads

Sarah's tomb




Greek text from when it was a Christian Church

Arabic text now it's a mosque

Reading the Qu'ran




In 1994, 29 people were killed and many more injured when an Israeli extremist gunman opened fire on a large number of Muslims at prayer in the Ibrahimi Mosque.

More around Hebron

Wednesday 8th February

We walked through the old market area where the encroachment of Jewish settlers has made life very difficult for people. Shops have shut due to lack of trade, houses have been taken over or abandoned. There is wire over the top to protect people from rocks, rubbish and debris thrown by the settlers. It's not a comfortable place to be at all!










Toy gun for sale in a place where real guns abound!





 We had a lovely lunch in a Palestinian home



 Palestinian boys playing on a donkey. A few minutes later a fight ensued as to whose turn it was.